“The economic rhythm of this place is that I run fifteen meals a week,” he used to say before Shopsin’s offered Sunday brunch. “If I do any five of them big, I break even; if I do ten of them big, I’ll make money. I’ll make a lot of money. But if I do fifteen I have to close, because it’s too much work. …”
“…By that time, Kenny was doing a good business in takeout sandwiches like chicken salad and egg salad. “Zito would bring me over bread and I would just have a line out the door every lunchtime,” he recalled not long ago.
“Essentially, if anyone asked me what I did for a living, I said I sold mayonnaise—mayonnaise with chicken, mayonnaise with shrimp, mayonnaise with eggs, mayonnaise with potatoes. The key was that essentially you sold mayonnaise for eight dollars a pound and everything else you threw in for free.”